The kurdish territory of Iraq is possible to visit safely and even without a visa (believe it or not). Having tried for a long time to get visa to visit Bagdad, I eventually gave up, when the idea of flying into Erbil, the capital of the north-eastern parts of Iraq materialized. We had an eventful and amazing trip around these parts visiting - Erbil, the regional capital, Mar Matai, Lalish, Dahuk, Al-Amedieh, the hamilton road, Gali Ali Beg, Rawandouz, Koysanjak, Sulymania and two refugee camps. We passed by Kirkuk and Mosul on the way back to Erbil, but were not able to go into these cities due to waring fractions. It was only 1 year later when ISIS came into power and control over Mosul.